Malawi by the Lake
Malawi is under estimated: Lake Malawi dominates the lives of hundreds of
thousands of Malawians. Livingstone's "lake of
stars" stretches 580 km, from the northern
border with Tanzania down the eastern border with
Mozambique to within a 500 km of the southern
border with Mozambique. It is 75km at its widest.
Most of the country's population is squeezed
between the lake in the east and the mountainous
western areas bordering Zambia.
It is a permanent fresh water lake with lots of fish,
a constant level, new water coming in at its northern
tip and old water leaving via the Shire River to the
Zambezi in the south and not many crocs or hippos.
While investigating bespoke holiday opportunities
for overseas visitors the writer swam for four hours
in balmy waters off Chinteche, about half way up
the western lake shore. Always check locally
before swimming in any African water.
Bilharzia [a parasitic water snail borne disease] has
been a problem down the years. It seems to be
more prevalent when over-fishing destroys fish
that feed on the snails.
Livingstone was the first European to discover it.
It is still known by many as Lake Nyasa, the
name he gave it. [A local dialect word 'niassa'
means a large expanse of water.] It has always
provided fish food. Some species are endemic to
the lake. Many are brightly coloured so snorkelling
has grown in popularity. More than 450 species of freshwater
tropical fish live here. They attract innumerable
kingfishers [eight varieties], fish eagles, herons,
egrets and cormorants, as well as lily-wading jacana.
For those who appreciate solitude and tranquility
head for the northern shores of this beautiful lake
where the depth plummets to well below sea level.
It may take you a day or two but does time matter
that much? Orchid-strewn Nyika Plateau 8000ft
above sea level lies to the north west and its
Chelinda Lodge is due to be re-opened in July this
year. Vwaza Wildlife Reserve lies beyond it to the
west. A few more humble lodges offer
accommodation around the northern shoreline.
Ask King & King for a bespoke holiday there.
Likoma Island lying to the east and surrounded by
Mozambique waters has excellent accommodation
for a relaxing few days by the water. Another
little known secret is the extraordinary 100 year-old
cathedral, complete with stained glass and
soapstone carvings. It is the size of Winchester
Cathedral
To the south of the lake lies Liwonde National Park
which has the reputation of being the best for birds
in all of Southern Africa. King & King recommends
a lodge here which lies in dense reverine vegetation
on a lagoon of the Shire River floodplains with a
natural rock swimming pool and plentiful game,
including rare black rhino.
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